Day 4

Tuesday 9th October

Day 4

“If you’re going through hell, keep going”.
….. Winston Churchill

What a day?

My early morning wake up call set at 6.15am was my earliest yet. My intention was to get an even earlier start and so it was. But my early exit of the “pension” was not only shrouded in pitch darkness but greeted with relentless rain.

I so knew that today’s trek was going to be difficult!

Thankfully I was accompanied by a French Canadian couple who quietly passed by me while I cursed in very fine Castilian during my wrestling match with my oversized poncho! Getting it on was fine, trying to cover my whole self with it was proving a monumental challenge in the blistering rain.

Like every morning I set off at a fast pace hoping to cover as much distance in the first couple of hours and I was almost shocked, paralysed even when I asked a young peregrino for the distance covered at that point. He smugly unhooked a pedometer from his jacket and almost jokingly told me we had covered just 4 km. My jaw fell and I almost dropped to my knees. This was unbelievable, how could we have made so little progress?

I continued along my way almost in shock knowing full well that I would not be able to make it, so by the time I reached the next “watering hole” I couldn’t but help myself and ask the waitress what distance we had covered.

Almost 10 km!! Great news but my greater satisfaction was telling the young man that his pedometer was crap!

The rain continued at regular intervals and the walk, although less hilly was becoming a muddy affair especially when we crossed through woods and countryside. If the weather hadn’t been so bad, I would readily admit that today’s scenery was a lot more appealing. There were several moments which almost jolted me out of my reveries especially when I was confronted by a herd of cows coming towards me marshalled by a trained Alsatian that actually made the cows go almost in a single file by running alongside them and expertly directed by the shouts of the accompanying “pastor”. (I must admit that at that moment I was more scared of the bloody dog than the cows themselves!!)

And so the trek continued, past Melide, a small bustling town, which in hindsight should have been my stop for the day. But my eagerness to get to Arzua was getting the better of me. Unfortunately I miscalculated and my planning was not well planned! I had not foreseen that my resting place for the night would be so far off the peregrino way and far from Arzua. That being the case and following advice from some locals I decided to veer from my route a couple of kms from Arzua and head “sideways” – map wise – to the idyllic location I had chosen.

The tiring day was more or less forgotten here in Casa Brandariz, a rural lodge with immensely beautiful surroundings. A countryside oasis where all that one can here is the melodious chirping of birds, the cackling of hens and the rustling of the trees as the the gentle breeze picks up. (Oh yes, and the clang of somebody loading a tractor with logs!)

A bit of paradise for a change!

Anyway to cut a long story or should I say trek short, this stage will be remembered mostly by the rain, rain and more rain, although I must admit that whilst I write here in the patio area the sun is making a showing and is making my writing all the more pleasant.

Tonight I am really looking forward to some Galician home cooking and if lunchtime is anything to go by I am in for a wonderful treat!


15 Responses to Day 4

  1. Arthur says:

    Hopefully the worst of it is behind you now Eddie! 77km down, 38 to go 🙂
    You’ve done really well!

  2. Joyce Diaz says:

    …the ‘shock’ and ‘paralysis’ mentioned above probably explains the lack of text messages during the course of the morning. I was quite worried at one point.

    As for the dog, there was no need to worry. Philip is right there beside you.

    And by the way,it might not be a sterling idea to use words like ‘crap’ and ‘bloody’, just in case Jesus reads your blog, you know…

    All my love

    The proof reader

  3. Malu Medhurst says:

    Joyce is right, Pip will take care of the dogs for you!! You know he had the “magic touch” with ours! As for the cows all you have to do is say horseradish and yorkshire pudding!!!! Hope the rain eases off for you tomorrow. Lots of love Malu xxxxxxxxxxxx

  4. Cathy says:

    I hope you had a great dinner.. and tomorrow you should consider taking a stick incase you are greeted by any unfriendly dogs again along the way! Enjoy!

  5. Maite says:

    Remember it’s not the destination but the journey. Relish and absorb it all. But most of all be careful and as Malu says, just think of the cows as a sizzling steak. And the dog? …well you would do well to remember that they can smell fear!!!! so maybe you should take a stick with you? Love you , Maite xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

  6. Dorian says:

    Don’t bother about dogs, they’re much better than humans, you gotta mind the bears!! Just look them in the eyes and don’t run!! HA HA! Eddie, even when you’re cold and miserable keep positive and enjoy the surroundings, think about the nights log fire and hot soup. Here’s hoping for another GREAT day tomorrow.

  7. Geraldine says:

    You’re doing so well! We are with you all the way! Enjoy the food, it realy is amazing up there….
    Take care

  8. Geraldine says:


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